The sports industry nowadays has such rapidly advancing technology in new materials, new protection gear, and new ways to achieve an athletic rush. Rock climbing is a very basic athletic rush; really you just need a rock and a person. With the increase in popularity came an increase in danger, height, and difficulty. Today there are so many different things you need to climb the latest problems: ropes, carabineers, crash pads, chalk; all designed for safety and getting you to the top, weather the top is 20 feet for bouldering which requires no rope but pads to fall on, or you need 50 pounds of carabineers and a car full of rope to send El Capitan. Out of all of the available products, one of the basic necessities to a climber is the shoe.
In the world of climbing there are many types of shoes to fit the multiple styles of climbing and personal preferences. There are also shoes that fall into a middle category of shoes that are not incredibly specific to the style of climbing and make a great choice for climbers that may have a preference to bouldering but do occasionally want to do a multi-pitch route. FiveTen’s Anasazi and La Sportiva’s Miura fit this category of fairly versatile shoes. These shoes are both priced in the similar range and are intended for an experienced climber that needs the performance of the shoe to be top-notch.
While both shoes provide excellent performance for a variety of climbing styles, the Anasazi is leading in technical climbs and bouldering due to its high friction soles and versatile shape; the Miura is geared towards advanced climbs and longer routs without the comfort of lengthy multi-pitch climbs. Both shoes offer a certain wobble room around their designs to allow them to be used for more than one style and be a great go-to shoe that always ends up in the gear bag.
The Miura has some great features on the shoe body itself. This shoe features traditional leather uppers making for a customizable fit for the shoe with the leather molding over time to the individual’s foot. The traditional leather also entails that this shoe will stretch significantly over the first few months of use, this shoe is recommended to be purchased two sizes smaller than you want it to end up being. This means that the first time you take your brand new shoes out: it will hurt. The comfort level in the beginning is a small sacrifice to pay for the reward you get if the shoe stretches perfectly to create a custom fit for your foot. Many climbers have come to terms with the fact that their are just going to hurt. Period. Climbing shoes have been traditionally made out of leather that made them last longer but meant that the stretch factor made the first few months of climbing excruciating. With the newer technologies, the stretching factor has been limited to a certain extent, but the Miura will still need to fit tighter than comfortable for the first few ascents.
The comfort level of this shoe is dramatically increased with the overlapping Dentex lining inside the shoe. The lining provides extra comfort for longer climbs and a snug fit. The La Sportiva Miura also utilizes the new trend in climbing shoes: the speed lacing system. This adjustable lacing system provides all the customizability of traditional lacing and locks it in allowing you to slip these shoes on quickly to hop on that climb right away. Clearly, one of the most important features to an advanced climber outside of comfort is the rubber lining the sole. The whole point of buying specific shoes that may be uncomfortable is to be able to stick to the rock. The La Sportiva Miura features a 4mm Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber sole, which is specifically designed to stick to those slick footholds that make all the difference when climbing slabs.
The body of the Five Ten Anasazi gears towards a different preference in climbers. This shoe features a completely synthetic upper which lowers the customization of the shoe provided by stretching leather, but provides ease in fit and care. The synthetic uppers provide relief from resorting to guess work required to figure out how much smaller you need to buy a shoe to account for stretching. A synthetic upper on a climbing shoe eliminates all of the guesswork due to very minimal stretching of the material over time and makes that painful break in period irrelevant. No more jumping down and instantly throwing off your shoes to nurse your throbbing toes. The Anasazi’s synthetic uppers and lack of lining also make this shoe a breeze to keep clean. Every climber has experienced the smell of athletic feet, while we may deny that our feet are that smelly, they are and everyone knows this. With leather shoes the only cleaning that can be done is by aerosol sprays or hand washing shoes and wearing them wet until they dry. While this prevents them from deforming from the shape that you spent months stretching them into, it is one of the worst feelings in the world: cold wet leather on your feet. The synthetic shoes can easily the washed, even in a washing machine, and left to air dry without the worry of changing shape on you.
FiveTen’s Anasazi also provides a fast alternative to traditional laces and makes up for some of the loss of customized shaping with the synthetic material by having two Velcro straps, no longer for five year olds, to secure the shoe into a no-slip fit. The prime feature of the Anasazi is FiveTen’s break through rubber: Stealth C4. This revolutionary rubber has very high friction making smearing on virtually nothing possible. Even slippery limestone knobs won’t be a constant excuse for not flashing a route.
The toe shapes of both shoes really bring out the differences in climbing styles that the shoes are marketed for. The low volume toebox of the Anasazi makes it a clear choice for bouldering with its specialization for toe hooks and precision. FiveTen’s Anasazi has a very conservative toe shape with very little curve making it incredibly versatile in climbing styles and even allows crack climbing with the flatter shape. In contrast, La Sportiva’s Miura features an average fitting toebox with a large performance curve and high asymmetry allowing for very advanced footwork on nearly non-existent footholds. The curvature of the toe on the Miura prevents it from being comfortable in cracks and makes it less desirable for bouldering due to the lack of toe-hooking capability. Both shoes can absolutely be used for any style of climbing, however, the differences in design make then more suited for particular styles over others. Both shoes also feature the latest rage in a fitted heel cup to prevent any slipping out by your foot on overhangs.
FiveTen and La Sportiva are both well-known companies in the climbing world and are known specifically for the quality and reliability of their products. Neither of these shoes is an absolutely awful choice for a climber to make, the differences in the products aim towards differences in climbing styles and personal preferences. Both shoes are good products. The choice in shoes is really a personal one that changes from climber to climber. The FiveTen Anasazi shoe is easier to clean due to the synthetic uppers making it possible to actually wash it in a machine without worrying about changing the shape. This shoe would also be easier to fit due to the minimal stretch. I would overall recommend the FiveTen Anasazi because of its versatility and simplicity in care. 